Mont Blanc du Tacul (4248 m)

Saturday. August 29th 2009. Roping up with Alex and Anh at the Refuge les Cosmiques (3613 m), 6.00 a.m. The sun is about to set, clear sky and we are heading out in the dark. We descend easily down to the Col du Midi (3532 m), pass it and start ascending to the Épaule du Mont Blanc du Tacul (4060 m). The route is quite steep, in beginning going straight and than zig-zagging through the ceracs (overhanging blocks of ice) and across some crevasses.

Arriving on the shoulder the weather is beautiful but windy. We meet a party of climbers returning from their ascent of Mont Blanc. They gave up due to the windy conditions. We continue up the shoulder – nice and easy uphill. Shortly before the ridge to the summit we meet two climbers that did not want to do summit in these windy conditions. We continue and meet two British climbers that just finished rappelling from the summit. On the summit we enjoy the sun and almost no wind protected by the surrounding rocks. We take some pictures of us with the Mont Blanc in the background before happily descending along the same route.

Descending from Aiguille du Midi.

Col du Midi and Épaule du Mont Blanc du Tacul. You can see the path on the glacier.

On the way up looking back to Aiguille du Midi.

On the summit of Mont Blanc du Tacul